March, 26 2024 ( Updated August, 06 2024)
On the northeastern coast of Sardinia, just 20 minutes' drive from Olbia, the Costa Smeralda (Emerald Coast) is one of the world’s most beautiful and glamorous destinations.
Famous for its white sandy beaches and pristine crystal-clear waters, the area has been protected since 1961, when Prince Karim Aga Khan I fell in love with its unspoiled nature and arranged for a consortium to buy and sensitively develop 20 km of the coastline. Over many decades the area has attracted a wide variety of billionaires and celebrities and is now home to some of the best restaurants, beaches and bars in the Mediterranean, and even the world! Moreover, away from the beaches, the region has several beautiful towns, packed with stylish shops and excellent restaurants.
So, from one of the most beautiful beaches to the historic treasures of the island, below we have rounded up a beginner’s Costa Smeralda guide to exploring this incredible Italian destination!
Here’s what cannot be missed:
Porto Cervo
Porto Cervo Harbour is one of the most glamourous spots on the Costa Smeralda
Porto Cervo is the unofficial “capital” of the Costa Smeralda, attracting the world’s Jet Set who frequent the town’s glamorous bars and boutiques. With a population of just 421, it's considered one of the world's most opulent destinations.
The Porto Cervo Marina accommodates 700 mega-yachts, attracting the rich and famous. Stroll through luxury boutiques or sip cocktails at upscale clubs. Don't miss the striking Stella Maris Church, resembling Gaudi's work, and enjoy panoramic views of the city: the architecture features decorative elements, rustic walls, and granite pathways, adding to the charm of Porto Cervo. The town is indeed a feast for the eyes, not only for its lovely Mediterranean architecture and vistas, but also for people watching.
Porto Rotondo is further south, down the coast and gives Porto Cervo a run for its money in terms of glamour. Founded in 1969 by two Venetian brothers, the town’s design was inspired by The Republic of Venice and is home to the stunning Marinella Beach, Porto Rotondo Yacht Club and its extensive marina that welcomes super yachts and luxury launches.
A breathtaking shot of the gorgeous Marinella Beach
During the summer season, the town hosts “Porto Rotondo in Fiera”, a delightful street market which takes place every Wednesday morning. The also town has exclusive nightclubs and fashionable boutiques. In the summer, don't miss the opportunity to attend one of the shows held at Porto Rotondo's amphitheater.
The sun-soaked marina of Portisco, an ideal destination for those who want to stay in a quiet place close to Costa Smeralda
In between Porto Cervo and Porto Rotondo is the small village of Portisco. It is quieter than its neighbours but offers some excellent restaurants, bars, beautiful beaches and pocket-friendly accommodations. The town’s extensive marina attracts some of the world’s most expensive yachts, so a stroll along the dockside is a fascinating way to spend an hour or so.
The characteristic heart of the Galluran village, San Pantaleo
San Pantaleo, nestled in the mountains about 14 kilometers south of Porto Cervo, is a quaint village steeped in history, dating back to 800 BC. Unlike other towns in the Costa Smeralda, which were developed for tourism in the 1960s, San Pantaleo retains its rustic charm and traditional Sardinian atmosphere.
Thursdays are particularly delightful with a bustling morning market offering local foods, fruits, and artisanal products. Don't miss sampling the homemade cheese and local honey while enjoying street musicians and delightful aromas filling the air!
The bright marina and waterfront of Poltu Quatu, perfect for a stroll with gelato
Meaning "hidden harbor" in Sardinian, Poltu Quatu is about 30 kilometers north of Porto Rotondo and 2 kilometers from Porto Cervo, almost at the northernmost tip of the Emerald Coast. This secluded gem offers breathtaking views of the turquoise waters, giving it a truly enchanting atmosphere.
Despite its remote feel, Poltu Quatu is home to a large resort with a shopping center, bars, restaurants, a sailing school, and a diving center, catering to all needs. Whether you're into water activities like scuba diving and snorkeling or prefer whale and dolphin watching, Poltu Quatu has something for everyone. Visitors can also charter a boat or take sailing lessons to explore the stunning coastline further.
Further south is the larger town of Olbia. Not strictly on the Costa Smeralda, Olbia is still a fun destination and a cheaper option for accommodation in Sardinia, with the airport minutes away from the town. For an authentic look into Sardinian life check out the street markets. The best of these is every Saturday morning in Via Sangallo. Here you can find the best local ingredients to cook at home, too.
Editor’s tip: Located off the coast near Olbia, Tavolara Island is known for its rugged cliffs, crystal-clear waters, and diverse marine life, making it a popular destination for hiking, snorkelling, and diving.
Another gem is the town of Palau, on the northern edge of the Costa Smeralda. Palau is a small port and beach resort, with stunning views across the bay to the Maddalena Archipelago.
This beautiful island is part of the Maddalena Archipelago and can be reached by ferry from Palau. Its white sandy beaches and crystal-clear waters are simply spectacular.
A busy day on the archipelago shouldn’t stop you from heading to this beautiful haven
A day trip to the Island of La Maddalena is a must and take your swimming kit because the island has some of the finest beaches in Sardinia. The smaller island of Caprera, with yet more gorgeous beaches (check out Cala Coticcio and Cala Napoletana), is linked to La Maddalena by a bridge. Caprera and Maddalena both make wonderful hiking destinations to get out into unspoiled nature. And if you can tear yourself away from the coast then the Garibaldi Museum and his tomb on the Island of Caprera, tell of this great general’s life, and death, on this tiny island.
Editor’s tip: About 12 minutes from Palau, Capo d’Orso is a fascinating stopover on your way to or from the Maddalena Archipelago named after the iconic Roccia dell’Orso (Bear Rock).
Enjoy the thrill of windsurfing in Porto Pollo
Also located in the municipality of Palau, Porto Pollo is one of the best spots in the world for windsurfing and kitesurfing, thanks to its constant winds and wide beaches. Another very popular seaside resort, with stunning beaches and transparent waters is Baja Sardinia. About 35 minutes from Palau, it's also a great place for windsurfing, sailing, snorkeling and diving.
A quiet fishing village with a tourist harbor and a beautiful beach. It's a great starting point for exploring the Costa Smeralda and its natural beauties.
Cannigione is roughly 10 kilometers east of Porto Cervo and Arzachena; a bustling tourist area known for its long promenade, modern port, and variety of restaurants and shops. Situated on a large inlet with golden sands, it's a popular spot for boating between cities and offers excellent opportunities for scuba diving and snorkelling. In fact, it is one of the best diving spots in Sardinia due to its clear waters and abundant marine life.
The wild charm of Cannigione Beaches, home to excellent diving spots
Editor’s tip: One can also take boat trips to the Maddalena Archipelago National Park or explore the unique birdlife at Stagno di Padula Saloni from Cannigione.
Nestled just inland from Costa Smeralda, Arzachena offers a vibrant escape with ancient wonders and a charming atmosphere. The town’s population, which is roughly 14,000, doubles during peak tourist season, boasting brightly lit boutiques, flower-filled streets, and renovated traditional farmhouses offering chic accommodations. For a refreshing break and a drink, head to the main square, Piazza del Risorgimento.
Chiesa di Santa Lucia, the perfect Instagram spot in Arzachena, Sardinia
Also, don't miss Monti Incappiddhatu, a Neolithic rock formation known as the "mushroom rock," and an expansive archaeological park featuring sites like Nuraghe La Prisgiona and the Tomba Moru (more on these later in the blog). Arzachena is renowned for producing the highest quality Vermentino di Gallura wine, and visitors can explore vineyards like Surrau and Capichera.
When you see Costa Smeralda beaches you will instantly understand why Aga Khan was so smitten.
One of the most beautiful beaches in the world, Spiaggia del Principe
Cobalt blue waters of Cala de Volpe, with private boats and yachts
Editor’s tip: Sardinia is one of the best European islands to visit in shoulder seasons like September when the average sea temperature is around 24 degrees Celsius.
The Arzachena Archaeological Sites comprise several ancient ruins and artefacts in Arzachena, Sardinia, Italy. These sites are remnants of the Nuragic civilization, which thrived on the island during the Bronze Age.
One notable archaeological site in Arzachena is the Nuraghe Albucciu, an ancient Nuragic tower surrounded by smaller structures. Additionally, there are several Giants' Tombs (Tombe dei Giganti) in the area, which are collective burial monuments built by the Nuragic people.
Excavations at these sites have revealed artifacts such as pottery, tools, and decorative items, providing insights into Nuragic daily life, rituals, and craftsmanship. Visitors to the Arzachena Archaeological Sites can explore these ancient ruins and learn about Sardinia's rich archaeological heritage.
A curious view from the inside of Nuraghe La Prisgiona
It is the main nuraghe in the region, located in Arzachena, Sardinia. This ancient stone structure is a prime example of Nuragic architecture, dating back to the Bronze Age. It served as a defensive tower and likely had various functions within Nuragic society.
This archaeological site features four megalithic tombs and is located near Arzachena as well. The tombs, known as "Grave Circles," date back to the late 4th millennium BC and provide insights into ancient burial practices and social structures of the Nuragic civilization.
Situated in the vicinity of Arzachena, the Malchittu Nuragic Temple is another significant archaeological site. It represents a type of sacred structure built by the Nuragic people for religious ceremonies and rituals. The temple's architectural features and cultural significance offer valuable clues about Nuragic religious beliefs and practices.
For visitors who are interested in history there are few places in Europe more ancient than the Tomba dei Giganti di Li Mizzani, about 10 minutes from Palau. This is an impressive Bronze Age grave site dating from about 1,800 BC, built by the Nuragic people, some of the earliest settlers to reach Sardinia.
The ancient Tombs of Giants, one of Sardinia’s most mysterious sites
This archaeological site near Arzachena features a well-preserved Nuragic tomb dating back thousands of years. It's an intriguing glimpse into the ancient civilization that once thrived in Sardinia.
The Giants' Tombs at Li Loghi, near Arzachena in Sardinia, Italy, are ancient burial sites built by the Nuragic civilization during the Bronze Age. These collective tombs feature large stone chambers covered by massive slabs. Li Loghi's necropolis-like layout suggests it served as a burial ground for a community. Excavations have uncovered pottery, tools, and ornaments, shedding light on Nuragic culture. Today, the site is open to the public, offering insight into Sardinia's prehistoric past and the advanced architectural skills of its ancient inhabitants.
Nuraghe Albucciu is an ancient Nuragic site near Arzachena in Sardinia, Italy, dating back to the Bronze Age. It features a central tower surrounded by smaller structures, showcasing advanced Nuragic architecture. Excavations have uncovered artifacts shedding light on Nuragic daily life. The site is open to the public, offering insight into Sardinia's rich history and ancient civilization. The entrance fee is 3€ for a 30 min visit.
Sardinian food and the island’s local wines set it apart from mainland Italy. The island’s history as a trading route comes through its cuisine. Arazachena, is known for its excellent restaurants, from the Michelin-starred Lu Pisantinu (Viale Orecchioni, Liscia di Vacca) to the more traditional Agriturismo La Colti (on the Arzachena-Canningione road) with its open courtyard and menu that changes daily. If you are in Olbia, then try the Essenza Bistrot (Via delle Terme) for traditional Sardinian food with a modern twist. The island is known for its Su Porcheddu, slow roasted suckling pig, as well as Bottarga, smoked mullet or tuna roe, generally served on pasta, and the delicate Pane Carasau which is a paper-thin bread and absolutely delicious.
Classic Sardinian cuisine – Spaghetti alla bottarga, an absolute must to try during your stay on the island
If you feel the need to work off all those delicious dinners, then perhaps a round of golf at the Pevero Golf Club is the answer. About 15 minutes south of Porto Cervo, the course is challenging, but players are rewarded with stunning sea views.
Pevero Golf course – one of the most beautiful and challenging courses in Sardinia
Olbia Airport is the main gateway to the Costa Smeralda Consortium, located 27 kilometers from Arzachena and 19 kilometers from Porto Rotondo. Buses from the airport to Arzachena cost €2-€4 and take about an hour, but you'll need additional transportation to reach popular hamlets like Porto Cervo or Porto Rotondo. Renting a car is recommended for convenience, with compact cars starting at €25 per day.
Alternatively, Alghero Airport serves the northern region of Sardinia, but it's over 150 kilometers from Costa Smeralda, requiring a 2-hour drive.
After a few days exploring this idyllic region, with its crystal-clear sea, endless beaches and unspoiled landscape, visitors, like Aga Khan, will fall in love with Costa Smeralda. In addition to its natural wonders, the area’s history, food, wine, lovely towns and markets, make it the perfect holiday destination.
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